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Bagru print process .

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Telkhar emulsion: 

It is an emulsion for oiling and alkaline treatment and

is used to desize and partially bleach the grey cloth to be printed. 

The treatment in the emulsion also renders the cloth soft and absorbent on account of the swelling of fibres and opening out of the pores therein to absorb the printing paste uniformly. Andoli ka tel (castor oil) or mitha tel (til oil), khar, the alkaline deposits which are abundantly found on the edges of the Sanjaria river equivalent to Fuller’s earth (Pennisetum tuyphoiduem) and mingni (sheep and goat dung) are mixed together in a vessel in the proportion of 300 gms. of oil, 1 kg. of khar and 500 gms. of mingni for 36 metres of cloth. (Both Fuller’s earth and mingni completely saponify the oil to a soapy emulsion).

Pila karna solution:

Giving a primary creamish-yellow colour to the fabric, this solution acts as a mordant for the syahi paste. It is made of harda powder (Chebulic Myrobalan) in water. Near the wells or right on the edges of the Sanjaria river, holes are dug out to serve the he purpose of tubs. 

These These holes are covered with a thin layer of cloth and the harda powder and water are strained through the cloth to remove the suspended impurities. 

Harda powder is mixed in the proportion of about 50 gms. per metre of cloth. Sometimes mitha tel in the proportion of 50 gms. per 36 metres of cloth is added to the harda powder which is made into a paste and dissolved in water contained in the holes.

 This renders the cloth soft and pliable in the printing operation that follows and also helps in the uniform absorption of the printing paste to develop a rich shade.

 The pila karna solution that is applied to the cloth after the alizarine dyeing to impart a fugitive creamish- yellow colour to the ground of the printed cloth is

invariably a solution of harde powder in water without any addition of oil.

Begar pastes

This is the morda ordant of alum which, in combination with alizarine, develops a rich red colour. In an earthen pot pot (matka) containing about 9 to 10

litres of water, 1 kg of gond (gum), 750 gms. and 250 gms of geru (red os nd fiskari firkari talum) and hours. 

While the gers and fith dissolved for four ho ty in water, the gum res dissolve completely in ochre) are remains in the lump form. 

The solution is strained slowly to another nd through a thin layer of cloth earthen vessel (handi) the put over the cloth and The lump of soaked gond is ha little moy while the rubbed with hand lightly with added to it little by little.

 liquor from the matka is add d till the lump of gum is This operation is continued till completely rubbed off and the liquor in the matka is compl um from forming austed. 

The moyi prevents the gum exhau tals which, if formed, may subsequently appear on not allowing the surface of the cloth during printing, not on such spots, thus making the printing red to appear on s patchy, Moy prepared by completely burningme Joyi is prebno smoke emits from it. 

Some cowdung (chhana) till 20 gms. of til oil is sprinkled over the burnt dung made into a thick paste. In to quench it. 

This is then made place of dung cakes, wheat flour is also used for the same purpose. The begar paste is prepared in bulk quantities as it is required for most of the prints.

Syahi paste:

 iron, the Syahi is essentially a fermented solution of iron, Serbenting agent being molasses (jaggery, gur) and this with the addition of gum becomes a paste ready for use in printing. Syahi in combination with the mordant harda develops into a deep black nto a deep black colour. In an earthen matka with a capacity of about fifteen

litres of water some 30 kgs. of iron horse-shoe (ghoda khurtal) are put and the vessel is then filled with water. 

The iron shoes may be the worn-out shoes of horses or camels. Horse-shoes rusted by water are not suitable for the purpose. 

The shoes are are burnt in a fire of cow Thie dung cakes and are used after cooling down. This burns away the rust, if any. About 250 to 300 gms. of molasses are put in the matka containing the horse- shoes and water. 

Four to five days after s after, the entire water is drained out from the vessel, and substituted by fresh water to the full, after adding a further quantity of 800 gms. of molasses. The pot is covered and left for a minimum of fifteen days in shade, taking care that no water drops over it nor is it exposed to any moisture. 

The consistency of the syahi liquor is tested by putting a few drops of it on a cloth mordanted with harda. If the impression turns deep black in colour then the consistency is taken to be proper, or else, fermentation is allowed to continue for another couple of days after which a similar test is made. The liquor becomes ready for use only when a deep black impression is obtained.

The entire liquor from the stock vessel is then poured out into another earthen pot. To this about 1500 gms. of gond and 250 gms. of multani mitti (white variety of clay) are added. The solution is then decanted into another earthen pot covered at the mouth with a layer of cloth, slowly rubbing the gum on the cloth with the application of moyi. The gum and mitti act as binding and thickening materials to lend proper viscosity to the syahi paste. The syahi

paste thus prepared becomes ready for use. To the stock vessel left with the horse-shoes and 

molasses, more fresh water and molasses are added and further fermentation is allowed for providing the syahi liquor for subsequent use.

The syahi paste is prepared in bulk quantities as it is required for most of the prints

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